Friday, July 27, 2012

Tuscany's Bistecca Fiorentina!

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"Beef . . . it's what's for dinner" is a famous advertising slogan that most Americans are familiar with.  Grilling beef is part of the American culinary scene, but most Amercians do not associate beef and the process of grilling beef with Italy.  Now when most people think of Italian meat, they immediately think of pork and/or veal, but never beef.  But sure enough beef is king in Tuscany as exemplified in the carnivore lovers' dream-of-a-steak 'Bistecca alla Fiorentina'!  There is even a grilled steak 'fair' held every summer in Tuscany where 'thousands of steaks are cooked on grills in the main park to feed the multitudes' (Flavors of Tuscany, 1998).  

Do Italians really eat steak? We thought pasta was their thing.  Italians are definitely about more than pasta. Not only do they eat and prepare steak with the same simplicity and respect for ingredients that you see in their other dishes but their preparation is given the same attention. Nowhere do they do it better than in Tuscany, home of the infamous Bistecca Alla Fiorentina or Florentine Steak, among the most classic of all Italian dishes. (Fiorentina – means in the style of Florence)

Grilling the Florentine way is what makes the difference in an average grilled steak to an incredible grilled steak.  This method is all about simplicity.  As most Italians do, Tuscans use very simple methods of preparation and always with the finest of ingredients. 
Recently I re-watched "Under The Tuscan Sun", film that allows those of us who can't get to Italy to experience a few blissful hours of imaginary life in the rolling hills of Tuscany.  This is my retirement dream . . . at least for a few weeks every now and then!  


If you'd like to prepare something Italian or Tuscan that might slightly parallel the American carnivore tradition of grilling steaks than this post is for you!  After watching the movie my culinary fairy hit me on the head with the reminder of what I watched on TV recently from Tuscany:   two foodie/travel shows featuring the famous beef steaks from Tuscany.  The first show was Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" and the second show was David Rocco's "Dolce Vita".  Both of these chefs, on separate occasions, went to Tuscany to visit Italy's famous butcher, Dario Cecchini, in his shop in the 900-inhabitants village of Panzano in Chianti.  This butcher's specialty is native to Tuscany:  "Bistecca Fiorentina".   A very meat-obsessed man, he even has his own web-site and is on youTube for your curiosity and pleasure.  Here is a brief clip of Anthony Bourdain's Tuscany episode with Cecchini of Tuscany {link} 
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It's also about the breed of cattle that makes this steak so unique.  Even though Italy has less cattle raised due to the lack of land to graze on, there is one of nature's finest breeds in Tuscany's Val di Chiana near Arrezo:  the highly prized Chianina (kya-NEE-na) an ancient breed of white cattle.  A proper and authentic Tuscan bistecca is either a T-Bone or Porterhouse steak cut from Chianina beef, a more tender, flavorful, juicy and closely grained beef which is superb for grilling.   In addition to the rule of using Chianina beef, the cut needs to come from the vitellone or young steer, not a baby calf.  


Another differentiating factor of Bistecca Fiorentina is that the steak must be cut at least 2-1/2 inches thick (or three to four fingers thick) and cut from the rib.  The famous Tuscan butcher says that the width should be no less than 4 fingers thick, which is the perfect size for two people to enjoy.  While in the market, he meat butcher cut the steak for us as my husband and I watched.  It is so obnoxiously outrageous in size that we laughed when he handed it to us; we were almost a little embarrassed!  We only purchased one steak, it was so big!   This is one giant-sized monster of a steak!  Size really does matter for this steak!  Below you can see that it is nearly the entire size of a dinner plate.  My husband and I could only eat a fourth of it because it was just too much for us.  So we have some great left-overs to use tomorrow.

Finally, it is also the tradition of how the steak is cut that sets this apart from other steaks and makes it an authentic Tuscan bistecca:  The filet is cut out first, the the center or strip steak portion is removed.  Each section is then sliced.  The bone is remains in place.


How did it taste?  Well, let's just say, that the beef was not corn-fed, which is not only our preference, but is also the only beef used for the famous steaks at Ruth's Chris Steak House.  We can't compromise on that rich flavor and it was certainly missing from this beef that was the best that we could find in our little town.  So sadly, all we can sum this up with is:  it was just one big huge steak, period.  And that's about all that was special and unique about it.

Note:  I prepared this several weeks later according to another recipe that called for a pool of olive oil, minced garlic, and rosemary on which to place each steak, followed by another drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of shavings of fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/4 pound for two steaks) on top of the steaks.  I cannot tell you how incredible this was and what a huge difference in flavor that ook place!  However, the recipe below is the "purist" version of this entree.
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Bistecca Fiorentina

T-bone or Porterhouse steaks, cut 3 - 4 (man-sized) fingers thick, if possible dry-aged
Extra Virgin Olive OIl 
Freshly cracked Sea Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Lemon Wedges (optional)

Take steak out of refrigerator for one to two hours before grilling and bring down to room temperature.
Generously sprinkle with Sea Salt and fresh pepper to form a crust when grilled.
Prop the steaks up with chopsticks for these few hours to allow the air to flow around the meat.
Using either a charcoal or wood fire, heat up the grill to VERY HOT and nice and smokey
Place the steaks on a very hot grill 4 inches from the fire.
Cook for approximately 4 - 6 minutes per side for rare to medium-rare steaks. 
Never overcook a Tuscan steak which is traditionally served rare.
The thicker the cut of steak, the longer you need to grill it.
Caution:  the tenderloin side will cooks faster than the strip or center filet side, so move the steak around on the grill to place the tenderloin further away from the heat when necessary. 
The exact time will depend on how well done you like your steak, 7 - 8 minutes on each side for medium-rare to medium steaks, etc.  Remember that the steak will continue to cook during the final resting period.
Be sure to flip the steaks over only once.
Note:  After grilling the other side, you may want to place the steak on its side on the side with the bone and grill for an additional 3 - 4 minutes which evens out the grilling more.
Remove the steaks from the grill.
Allow the steaks to rest for 5 to 10 minutes after removing from the grill, again propping them up with chopsticks to allow air flow.
Prior to serving, drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and sprinkle with freshly cracked sea salt and black pepper again.  
Slice the steak the traditional and authentic way:  Cut the filet out first, then cut the centre out and slice each section.  Keep the bone in place around the slices.

Serve immediately with lemon wedges.
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Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Rustic Italian Tomato Pie


In the American South is a popular dish known as "Tomato Pie".  Neither my husband nor I had ever heard of this before living here.  But lately I've seen it featured in Southern Living and on some of the food shows that I've been watching while laid up on the recliner healing my back.  We were really grateful for the kindness extended to us from our friends who are native Southerners when they baked one of these pies to give us this week . . . and that would certainly give my husband a night off from cooking while I'm on the mend from surgery.


A traditional Southern tomato pie

The tomato pie was delicious, but both my husband and I were taken back by the unexpected tangy flavor that resulted from combining mayonnaise and cheddar cheese baked on top of tomatoes and onions.  Really, really good and nothing like we'd ever had before.   We certainly appreciated the gesture, kindness, and friendship that was extended, however the unique taste in this version of tomato pie led me on a path to discover other presentations of tomato pie.  


lots of butter, mayonnaise, and cheese in the Southern pie

here's another photo from "eclectic recipes"


Now that's what I call a cheesy dream of a tomato pie!

From the Northeastern region of the States, I found that there is a thick pizza-focaccia bread based tomato pie that I'd like to make later on.  From the photos, it looks like a thick pizza with an equally thick layer of tomato sauce on top (not sliced tomatoes) and nothing else.  Already I could see a difference in the sub-cultural interpretation of tomato pie!


certainly MORE focus on tomatoes and not cheese!

Meanwhile within the pages of one of my Italian cookbooks, "Vegetables From An Italian Garden", I found a photo and recipe for a 'rustic' tomato pie.  It doesn't look like a pie at all, but since that's what the title stated I set out to try it.

This recipe did not fail my expectations; even my husband ate a whole 'slice'!




photo of the rustic tomato pie in my cookbook


 spread softened butter onto the baking sheet pan


saute' green onions and sprinkle onto bread


generously layer tomato slices and sprinkle herbs on bread


place top piece of bread on,
pour egg/milk mixture all over, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper


place slices of pecorino cheese randomly on bread and
bake in the oven until golden brown


This rustic Italian tomato pie is indeed the opposite of the traditional Southern tomato pie.  The latter has a heaviness to it, maybe due to the all of the mayonnaise, cheese and butter, and the tomatoes seemed a bit lost.  But it had a tangy cheese flavor that cannot be beat . . . and anything with cheese gets my attention quickly!  

For the rustic pie on the other hand, the oregano and basil sang out, there was no greasiness at all, and the tomatoes really stood out.  A wonderful crunch is heard as you bite into the egg/milk baked bread.  I think that this tomato pie truly reflects one of the important principles of Italian cooking:  keep everything simple and don't cover up the flavors, but rather -- enhance them!  I'm so glad to have stumbled upon this recipe and know that it will be made quite often!

And now, I'll just go have a piece of both tomato pies for some fresh summertime tomato bliss!


Rustic Italian Tomato Pie
(adapted from "Vegetables From An Italian Garden")

butter for greasing pan
3 Tbsp. olive oil
3 scallions/green onions, finely chopped
12 thin slices good quality Italian whole wheat bread, crusts removed (I left them on)
4 - 5 fresh tomatoes, sliced
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. dried basil
2 jumbo eggs (I doubled this from 1 egg)
1 1/3 cups whole milk (I doubled this from 2/3 cup milk)
8 oz. pecorino cheese, sliced very thin
salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Spread butter all over a baking sheet with sides.
Heat olive oil in a small pan, add the scallions/green onions and sauté over low heat, stirring occasionally for 5 minutes.
Lightly season with salt.
Remove from heat.
Cover the bottom of the buttered pan with half of the bread.
Spoon the scallions/green onions on top of bread.
Place tomato slices on top.
Sprinkle with dried oregano and dried basil.
Cover with remaining bread slices.
Beat eggs with the milk in a bowl; season with salt and pepper.
Pour the mixture over the bread.
Cover with pecorino cheese slices.
Bake for 30 minutes or until the cheese has melted and turned golden brown.
Do not burn the bread though.
Let cool slightly and then serve on a nice serving dish.

And now here's the recipe for the traditional Southern Tomato Pie


Southern Tomato Pie

1 pre-made pie crust
1 large sweet onion, diced
5 – 6 very fresh, preferably farmer’s market or garden-fresh tomatoes, sliced
(Tip: Slice tomatoes in half first and squeeze out excess juice before slicing to reduce water in the pie)
1 cup mayonnaise
1 cup cheddar cheese
1 cup sliced fresh Monterey Jack cheese
salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Place pie crust in pie plate.
Arrange onions in the bottom of the pie in a circular formation.
Then arrange sliced tomatoes, around in a circle, and some in the middle.
Add salt and pepper.
Combine mayonnaise, cheddar cheese and dried Italian seasonings in a small bowl.
Mix well and spoon over tomatoes, leaving about 1 inch gap in between mayo and the edge of the pie so you can still see the tomatoes.
Place sliced cheese on top of mayonnaise layer.
Bake for about 30 minutes, at 350 degrees, or until cheese is golden.


Mangia!


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Friday, July 20, 2012

Wild Mushroom Agnolotti in Basil Pesto Butter


"You are not to cook for 8 weeks!" and "No BLT's" stated the nurse at the Carolina Neurosurgical and Spine Center in a pre-surgery class filled with a group of patients and their primary care takers preparing for upcoming lumbar fusion surgery.

"Oh my God," I said to my husband during the class that took place two weeks ago prior to the back surgery.  This rule for recovery was just as much of a shock as learning the amount of pain that would be encountered for the first 4 days after surgery.  Cooking requires a lot of "bending, twisting, and lifting . . . the three BLT's", the things that you cannot engage in for 8 weeks while wearing a back brace and healing the wounds of surgery.

"Prepare lots of frozen meals ahead of time, or have someone cook for you,  or order take-out" continued the nurse.

Well, ordering take out every single day was not an option due to the expense, the huge portion sizes, and the amount of salt and fat included.  And as far as having someone else cook in this household, let's just say that my husband's cooking skills are almost non-existent except for Sunday morning pancakes and sausage.

So that really put the emphasis on preparing lots of frozen meals.  And I'm not talking about frozen pizzas or frozen boxed dinners either!

Truthfully I do make and freeze a lot of frozen homemade meals, but I thought that I'd get creative this afternoon for lunch while my husband was at work.  These new rules for recovery from surgery are proving to be like a little cheat sheet in the kitchen . . . to give yourself permission to use frozen ingredients too!  So since I was in the mood for feel-good carb-laden pasta, I slowly went to visit my happy freezer to see what I could put together.

One shelf of my freezer is filled with frozen pastas, both filled and un-filled.  Naturally since my husband fixed spaghetti in a batch of my frozen Bolognese sauce two nights ago, I went straight for the filled pastas.


Hmmmm?  Should I bathe these little pillows of beauty in a sage-butter bath?  Sounds good . . . but hey!  My drugged up head came up with a better idea!  How about using up a small container of frozen homemade marinara sauce?  Even better, my GPS location system went to the shelf where little plastic containers of my frozen home-made basil pesto was crying out to be used.

The pesto won!

So while the wild mushroom agnoletti were swimming in the boiling water on the stove, I melted a half stick of butter and stirred in about a tablespoon of my thawed out basil pesto sauce.  Not too much now; these are delicate pastas.

PERFECTION!  What a delicate and sublime flavor combination!

"So there!  I can still cook while in recovery . . . just a little more creatively with the help of my friend, the freezer!"




Wild Mushroom Agnolotti in Basil Pesto Butter

1 9 oz. package of Buitoni pre-made, frozen wild mushroom agnolotti
1 stick of butter
1 - 2 Tbsp. basil pesto sauce

Cook the mushroom agnolotti according to package directions.
Thaw out frozen basil pesto sauce.
Melt butter.
In a medium bowl, mix the hot butter and the basil pesto sauce.
Gently place the agnolotti in the warm pesto butter.
Toss lightly to cover the pasta lightly with the pesto butter sauce.




  
Mangia!


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